,u^^ 







(Invented by Mrs. H, a, Leake,) 



A Complete M Relialile GiiiJe for Dress Makers 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR ITS USE 



INVENTIONS FOR SAVING LABOR SHOULD BE TESTED BEFORE 
THF.Y ARE EITHER ACCEPTED OR REJECTED. 



A Copyright for the Above is Claimed by Mrs. H. A. Leake, Residing in the 
City of Oakland, State of California. 




I 



A SYSTEM 



IJTTffNOr 




(IKVENTED BY MRS. H. A. LEAKE,) 



A Complete and Eeliatile Gaide for Dress Maters. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR ITS 




HO 



INVEMTIONS FOR SAVING L,\BOR SHOULD BE TESTED BEFORE THET 
ARE EITHER ACCEPTED OR REJECTED. 



A Copyright for the Above is Claimfd ey Mrs H. A. Leake. Residing in the 
City of Oakland, Stats of California. 



<<^ 



%^ 



v^ 



B n le t e d aeeoTding to Act of Con^i-ess in the ye^r iS>3, bv Mbs. H. A. Lsak^, in 
tiie office of the Librariata of Coi-grejs at Wastungton. 



°N. B. — The penalties prescribed by law \dUbe rigidly 
enforced against any person vho infirnges upon 
thehe instructions, cr the systtm to vhich they 
relate. 



^ 




INTRODUCTION. 



'HE System for Dress Fitting invented by Mrs. Leake 
in 1865, and improved in 1874, fully met the demands 
of the styles of garments worn at those dates, and 
■was pronounced by all competent and unprejudiced 
persons to be the best Dress-fitting System in use. 
In consequence of the changes that have since been 
made in the styles of dresses, the inventor has decided 
to further improve the System and adapt it to the modern 
style of ladies' garments. She not only is acquainted 
with all the principal systems, models and charts for dress 
fitting in use in the United States, but has a practical knowl- 
edge of dressmaking, and professes to be able to teach the 
art in any and all of its branches; and she ventures to assert 
that HER System, as now arranged, is more correct and 
reliable than any other in use. The principle upon which it 
is founded is that of an inch rule, and scales carefully and 
accurately arranged, and while the princij^le is the same as 
that adopted by tailors in fitting coats, it gives correct forms 
and curvatures, without which much time and labor w^ould 
be required in fitting. 

Some Dress-fitting Systems are learned with great difficulty, 
and the most expert cannot fit with them more than three or 
four Dresses in a day. It is clear that any System which 
requires much time, study and patience in its use, is of but 
little value to the often perplexed and harrassed dressmaker. 
This System can be easily learned and waists can be 
drafted by it with ease and facility, and it will be found by 
actual test that such waists will fit perfectly in every case 
without any alteration from the original drawing. The Sys ■ 
tem is both convenient to use and durable in quality, 



[4] 

and it embraces mucli m(jie than any thing of the kind 
ever before ofi'ered to the public. With it a lady can fit 
dresses for herself as well as for others, and to dressmakeis. 
it will save a vast amount of time and labor. Figures or 
drawings of some of the garments that can be fitted with it 
are given. These figures have been drawn with a small 
photograph copy of the System, and it will be seen that if the 
drafts are made according to the directions given they will 
correspond exactly with the shape of the figures. The Sys- 
tem is the result of much study and many careful tests. The 
more it is tested and criticised the better the inventor will 
be pleased, and a comparison of fitting by it and that of any 
other that can be produced, either by inventors or agents, is. 
respectfully challenged by her. 

Opportunities to examine and test her System and compare 
it with others will be cheerfully afforded, for the inventor is 
confident that such tests and comparisons will secure its 
adoption by all who understand what Dress Fitting should 
be and by all who desire to become first-class Fitters. 



The following instructions are the result of much study and 
experience and many careful tests with the s} stem, and they 
will be found correct. With a correct measurement of the 
person to be fitted, a mistake can not occur if the directions 
are followed specifically. Many styles and figures other than 
those given might be added, for, with this system, any of the 
garments that may be selected from either the French or Kew 
York fashion plates can be easily and accurately drafted. They 
are not added, because it is believed that any lady can easily 
learn to thus adapt the system, after obtaining a full and 
practical knowledge of the directions and of the methods of 
drafting which are given. 

Communications should be addressed to 

Mes. H. a. LEAKE, 

Oakland, Gal., or 

Albany, N. Y. 



INSTRUCTIONS 



MMTING MD PITTING DSESSES, ETC. 



It will be observed that this System gives the straight 
shoulder, with the exception of a slight curve at the neck, 
which is in accordance with the French style, and that 
adopted by tailors in fitting coats and all first-class Dress 
Fitters. This shape of shoulder will fit any form for which 
it is drafted. 

"Waist Linings. 

A dress will fit better, wear longer, and have less wrinkles, 
by having a good firm lining. One and one-half yards of one 
yard wids lining is sufficient for a basque ten inches long 
below the waist line. 

Before commencing to draft, take both ends of the lining 
and pLice them even together at the left on the table, so that 
TDoth fronts may be cut out together. Draft the front first. 

It is of the utmost importance that care should be exer- 
cised in taking the measures to get them correct and accord- 
ing to the rules given. 

Directions for Taking Mea=?uras. 

Place the belt around the waist and be sure it does not 
slope down at the front or back. 

Measure half the size of neck by placing figure 1 on tape 
at the ed jje of lap in front, and as high as'the dress is desired, 
before the band is on, and measure to middle of back of neck. 

Measure from neck in front to bottom of belt for length of 
front. 

Measure from close under arm straight to bottom of belt 
for length under arm. 

Measure from neck to arm size on shoulder seam for length 
of shoulder. 

Measure half the width of chest by placing figure 1 on 
tape 3 inches down from neck in front straiglit to arm size. 

Measure around arm at shoulder as tight as the arm size is 
desired to be worn. 

Measure as tight around the bottom of waist as the dress 
is desired to be worn. 



[6] 

Measure from prominent bone in neck to bottom of belt for 
length of back. Draft the width of back one -half inch less 
than the width of chest. If the width of chest is eight 
inches, the back should be seven and one-half inches. 

Measure for height of shoulder. To do this have the lady 
place both hands on the hips, three inches below the belt, 
and place the end of tape at the bottom of the belt 2J inches 
from straight under arm; bring tape over the point of 
shoulder at arm size seam down to bottom of belt in front 3 
inches from first end of tape. If the number of inches is 28, 
dot 15j inches for height of front shoulder and I'l^ inches 
for height of back shoulder. When a lady has a slight figure 
with thin shoulders make the height of front 2 inches longer 
than the back, which will bring the shoulder seam at arm 
size in proper position for such a figure. In no case sliould 
the height of front be more than three inches longer than the 
back. 

A test measure of the bust is obtained as follows : 

Be sure the lady has the same amount of padding she de- 
sires to wear when the dress is fitted. Measure around the 
fullest part of the bust and over the shoulder blades as. 
loose as the dress is desired when done. 

In learning to draft use the following measures : 

1. Size of neck 7 inches. 

2. Length of front 14 

3. Length of under arm 8 " 

4. Height of front shoulder 15^ ' ' 

5. Length of front shoulder G " 

6. Width of chest 8 

7. Arm size . . . IG ". 

8. Waist size 24 

9. Length of back 16 " 

10. Height of back shoulder 12^ " 

11. Length of back shoulder 6^ " 

Directions for Drafting Front for a Tight-fitting Basque 
with one Dart and one-&ide Body. 

[See figure 1.] 

Draw a straight line 1| inches from edge of cloth for lap; 
place square end of rule on the line ^ an inch down from top 
of cloth with the point from you and dot at neck size (7) ; 
place A on neck rule at that dot with 7 on lower part of neck 
rule against the line for lap, and draw a line for neck; place 
square end of rule at lower part of neck in front with point 
of rule straight down and dot at 14 inches for length of front; 
place square end of rule at the length of front dot, with the 
point up and the edge of rule even on lap line, and dot at 15 
inches for height of shoulder; place square end of rule at 



[7] 




Figure No. 1. 

that dot even on lap line, with the point from you, and draw 
a line out 14 inches; this line is for height of shoulder. 
Now, place 21 on point of rule at the upper part of neck with 
edge of rule at height of shoulder line, and draw a line 6 
inches from neck for length of shoulder; dot 3 inches down 
from neck in front; place square end of rule at that dot and 
even on lap line, with the point from you, and dot 8 inches 
for width of chest; place 8 on arm size at length of shoulder 
dot, with the edge at width of chest dot, and draw a line 
from shoulder to A on arm size; place square end of rule at 
that dot with the point straight down and dot at 8 inches for 
length under arm ; place square end of rule at the length of 
front dot, with the edge at length under arm dot, and draw a 
line from dot to dot for waist line before moving the rule; dot 



[8] 

one inch from lap line in front; (this incli must be taken o5 
when only one dart is desired;) dot 2| inches from the 
one inch in front, which will be the distance from front to 
dart; place rule straight across from under arm size with 
the square end even on lap line in front and draw a line on 
upper part of rule four inches beyond dot on arm size; (this 
line is for the purpose of applying the test measure after the 
waist is drafted), and dot at A on square end of rule; drop 
end of rule to dot, keeping the edge at arm size and dot four 
and one-half inches on lower part of rule for height of dart; 
place point of rule at that dot with the edge at the two and 
one-half inch dot on waist line, and draw dart the width of 
rule, unless the lady has a large bust, in which case make the 
dart two and one-half inches wide on the w^aist line; dot 
for.r inches out from dart on waist line; place 21 on 
rule at that dot with point of rule doAvn and the edge 
at arm size, and draw a line inside of rule for seam under 
arm. Now measure the distance from the end of test meas- 
ure in front to the four inch dot beyond the arm size; then 
dot two inches less than that distance on height of shoulder 
line from lap line on front where one side body is desired; 
place A on arm size to the four inch dot beyond arm size 
with the edge of back form rule at the dot on height of 
shoulder line, and draw a line to point on arm size for side 
body; place square end of 'rule to dot on front of side body 
and get length of under arm as before (eight inches); extend 
waist line and dot four inches out from first line under arm 
on waist line; place 21 on rule to that dot with point of rule 
down, and the edge at first dot on side body, and draw a line 
from dot to dot on outside of rule. This will make the same 
curved line as on the front; dot three and one-half inches 
out on waist line from seam under arm for width of side 
body; place point of rule at point on arm size with the edge 
of rule inside of dot on waist line; ;ind draw a line from 
point of rule to waist line on outside of rule; place the edge 
of rule at the bottom of side body on waist line straight 
down by threads of cloth, and dot ten inches; dot three 
inches out from ten-inch dot for spring to bottom of basque 
and draw a line ; dot six inches down from waist line directly 
through the center of the four-inch space to be taken out 
under arm, and, place point of rule to bottom of first 
line under arm on waist line and draw a line to the six-inch 
dot on outside of rule; place point of rule to side body line 
and draw a line to six-inch dot on inside of rule; be 
sure these two lines curve towards each other; dot three 
inches down from arm size on side body line and dot one 
third inch down from side body line at arm size ; place point 
of rule at that dot and draw a line to lower dot on outside 
of rule; extend test measure line straight to outside of side 
body. 



[ »J 




Figure No. 2. 
Back for Front No. 1. 

Place the lining in same position as for front; draw a line 
one inch from edge of cloth; while rule is in this position 
dot at 18 inches; dot one inch inside of line; draw a line 
from the top of the one inch line to the one inch inside of 
line; draw a line straight out from first line and down one 
inch from top of cloth; place the rule above this line with 
the square end even on first line, and dot at 7 for sii;e of 
neck; dot on first line one-half inch down from upper line; 
draw neck with point of rule; place square end of rule at 
neck on first line with tlie point down and even on first line, 
and dot at 16 inches for length of back; place square end of 
rule at that dot, and even on first line with the point from 



[ 10] 

you, and draw a line out for waist line; place square end of 
rule at the 16 inch dot, with the point towards neck, and dot 
eight inches on first line (the length under arm), and at 
twelve and one-half inches (the height of shoulder); place 
square end of rule at the eight inch dot and even on first 
line, and draw a line out; move square end of rule to inside 
line, and dot seven and one-half inches for width of back, 
(the width of back must be drafted one-half inch less than the 
width of chest, so there is no necessity to take width of back 
measure); place square end of rule at the 12 inch dot, and 
even on first line with point from you, and draw a line for 
height of shoulder; place 21 on rule at the neck size dot, 
with the edge at the height of shoulder line, and draw a line 
six inches for length of shoulder. This six inch dot must be 
directly on height of shoulder line; draw the line one-half 
inch longer before moving rule; place O on back arm size, 
at width of back dot with edge at length of shoulder dot, and 
draw a line for back arm size; dot one inch on arm size from 
lower dot; place the square end of rule even on first line, and 
above the length of back dot and draw a line for waist; move 
the rule to inside line, and dot two inches for width of back 
on waist line; place C on back form rule to the one inch dot 
on arm size with the edge at width of back dot, and draw a 
line to waist line; place square end of rule at the width of back 
dot on waist line straight down and dot ten inches; dot three 
inches out from the ten inch dot for spring; draw a line from 
middle of back on waist line to edge of cloth. Apply the 
test measure before cutting out, and if there is too little room 
let out the front seam under arm. 

Front of Basque with two Dirts and two Side Bodies. 

[Sec figure 3.] 

Draft the same as No. 1, except do not take off one inch in 
front; dot at darts on lower edge of rule, and make the darts 
two inches wide on waist line, and draw the darts ten inches 
down from waist line; dot in center of each dart, and draw 
a straight line from each side of the dart on waist line to dot. 
Refer to waist measure for number of inches to be used 
between seams on waist line, and dot the same distance on 
height of shoulder line as on test line for width of side body 
arm size. 



[11] 




i'igUi-e sso, '3. 
Back of Basque with two Darts and two Side Bodies. 

(See figure 4.) 

Draft the same as No. 2, except use tlie number of inches 
described in waist measure (2J:), and dot one-third the dis- 
tance from lower dot on arm size to poir.t of shoulder; place 
C on back form rule at the dot on arm size, with the edge at 
width of back dot on waist line and draw a line; cut out 
back allowing for seam, except at neck and arm size; place 
the back over on cloth far enough to admit spring in back of 
side body, and even on height of shoulder and width of back 
lines, so that the threads of back will correspond with those 
of side body; pin the back to side body and dot at the end 
of back form line on arm size, and under the same line on 
waist line; replace rule on width of back line, and extend 



[12] 




Figuie No. 4. 

line to seven and one-half inches as before cutting out back; 
draw the arm size as before; place rule and dot two inches 
straight out on waist line from bottom of form on back for 
width of side body; place point of rule at lower dot on arm 
size, with the edge at dot for width of side body, and draw 
a line on inside of rule ; dot ten inches straight down from 
both sides of side body, and three inches out for spring; re- 
move back and place C on back form rule at the upper dot 
on arm size with the edge at first dot on side body and draw 
a, line on inside of back form rule; cut out side body, and 
allow seams except at neck and arm size. 



[ 13 J 




Figure No, 6. 

Back with Seam running to Shoulder. 

Tins back can be used with any kind of front. 

Draft the same as back No. 4, except dot three inches from 
neck on shoulder; place 20 on rule at the width of back dot 
on waist line with the edge of rule at the three inch dot on 
Bhoulder, and draw a line on inside of rule; cut out back and 
place it over, and draft as before. 



[14] 




Figure No. 6. 

Misses' Waists. 
Take the measures the same as for ladies, except the width 
of back must be of the same width as the chest. 



Front for a Tigh '■.-Fitting Basque for a Miss. 

[See figure 6.] 

This front is drafted the same as others, except place the 
folded edge of cloth toward you (the dress being open at the 
back); place O on neck rule at neck size dot; stop at B on 
arm size; dot two inches from neck to get the width of chest, 
dot two inches out on test line from B dot on arm size ; pla3e 
B on arm size at that dot with the edge at point of shoulder 
and draw a line to O for arm size; get width of front on 



[15] 

waist line with or withoat dart; dot two inches from width 
of front on waist line for dart under arm; dot six inches 
down on middle of the two inches on skirt and place 20 on 
rule at waist line to obtain curves ; extend waist line and dot 
for width of side bodj; place 21 on rule at arm size with 
edge at width of side body on waist line and draw a line to 
waist; obtain the length of skirt down the front and the 
width of skirt from the length dot; draw a line from outside 
of side body to width of skirt. 




Figure No. 7. 
Back for No. 6. 

[See figure 7.] 



This back is drafted the same as others, except draw first 
line one width of rule from edge of cloth. Do not take off 



[ 16] 

one inch on back arm size unless the front side body arm 
size IS drawn one incli beyond O; place 21 en rule at aim 
size on side body with the edge at width of side body on 
waist line; obtain length of skirt and width of skirt and 
draw a line from bottom of waist to width of skii't. 




Figure No. 8. 



[17] 
Front for a Half Fitting Coat. 

[See figure 8.] 

Draft the same as for a tight-fitting basque except draw 
lap line two and one-half inches from edge of cloth; dot eight 
and one-half inches for width of chest; seven inches for 
length of shoulder, and thirty inches for waist measure; 
to obtain side body arm size, dot the same distance on 
height of shoulder line as on test or bust line; make 
space to be taken up on waist line and under arm three inches 
wide; dot in center of space twelve inches down, and place 
20 on rule at waist line to get curves; make distance from 
front to dart on waist line three inches; from dart to seam 
luider arm five inches; and side body three inches and dart 
two inches; get length from waist line on the front, and dot 
for width of skirt from the length dot, and draw a line from 
outside of form on waist line to width of skirt dot. 

To draw the revere, dot two inches in on coat from lower 
part of neck, and two inches out from lap line towards edge 
of cloth; draw a line from last dot to A dot on square end of 
rule on lap line; cut out the revere to the two inch dot on 
coat ; turn same over on coat and fit the collar as indicated in 
the figure. 



[ 18 




Figure No. 9. 

Back for a Half-Fitting Coat. 

Draft the same as for a tiglit-fitting basque, except draft 
the back shoulder the same length as front (No. 8) and the 
width of back 8 inches, and make the width of back on 
waist line 4 inches. 



[19] 




Figure No. 10. 
Measures for a Sleeve. 

Measure from inside at arm size to elbow, and then to 
wrist. 

Measure around the wrist. 

Measure around the elbow. 

Measure around the upper part of arm, two inches from 
top of shoulder with the tape at inside seam at arm size. 

In drafting a sleeve, use the following measures : 

1. From arm size to elbow 8 inches. 

2. From elbow to wrist 7 " 

3. Size of elbow 12 " 

4. Size of wrist 9 " 

5. Size around the arm 14 " 

Directions for Drafting a Sleeve. 

Draw a straight line twenty inches long; draw a line ten 
inches long at each end of and at right angles to twenty 
inch line; dot in the center of both the ten inch lines, and 
draw a line from dot to dot; place square end of rule at the 
ten inch line to the right, and dot two inches on twenty inch 
line; dot one and one-half inches from the two inch dot on 
same line; place square end of rule at the two inch dot, and 
even on twenty inch line with the point from you, and draw 
a line nine inches long; dot one inch toward twenty inch line 
from the center of the right ten inch line; place O on back 
arm size at that dot with the edge at the one and one-half 
inch dot on 20-inch line, and draw a line from dot to d )t; 
dot six and nine inches on the two inch line from twenty inch 
line; dot eight inches on 20-inch line from one and one-half 
inch dot, for length of inside seam to elbow; dot seven inches 



[20] 

from the eight inch dot for length from elbow to wrist; place 
square end of rule at the eight inch dot, and even on twenty 
inch line, and draw aline for elbow; dot one and one-quarter 
inch on this line from 20-inch line; place 21 on rule at 
the one and one-quarter inch dot with the edge at the one 
and one-half inch dot, and draw a line on outside of rule for 
length of inside seam to elbow; place 21 on rule at the eight 
inch dot again with the edge at the seven inch dot, and draw 
a line on outside of rule for length from elbow to wrist; place 
square edge of rule at the seven inch dot at wrist, with the 
edge at the end of the center line, and draw a line 
out five inches and dot at four inches on same line; dot 
five and seven inches out from the curved line on elbow line ; 
place 21 on rule at the five inch dot, with the edge at the 
four inch dot on wrist line, and draw a line on outside of 
rule, draw a line in the same manner from the seven inch 
dot to the five inch dot; place 21 on rule at the five inch dot 
on elbow line again, with the edge at the six inch dot on the 
two inch line, and draw a line on outside of rule; place 21 
on rule at the seven inch dot on elbow line, with the edge at 
the nine inch dot on the two inch line, and draw a line on 
outside of rule; place O on under side of arm size at the one 
inch dot on the right ten inch line, with the edge at the nine 
inch dot on two inch line, and draw a line from dot to dot 
for upper part of sleeve; place the point of rule at the end 
of the one and one-half inch line on twenty inch line 
with the edge at the six inch dot on the two inch line, and 
draw a line on under part of rule. 




Tigura No. 11. 



[21 ] 
Directions for Drafting Sleeye for a Half-Fitting! Coat. 

[See figure 11.] 

Draft the same as for dress sleeve except make the under 
part one inch wider on back seam. 




figure No. 12. 



[22] 
Front for a Cloak. 

[See figure 12.] 

Draw a line two inches from edge of cloth; draft the same 
as for a basque, except make waist size eight inches larger 
than for a tight-fitting basque; dot four inches from front to 
dart; make dart one and one-half inches wide on waist line; 
dot five inches from dart to first seam under arm; make space 
under arm four inches, the same as for a basque; dot four 
inches for width of side body on waist line; after drawing 
arm size the same as for a basque, dot two inches 
down by threads of cloth from A dot on arm size; dot 
one inch on shoulder line from the six-inch dot so that the 
shoulder will be five inches long; place A on arm size at the 
two-inch dot below the arm size, with the edge at the 
five inch dot on shoulder, and draw a line from dot to 
dot. This will make the arm size much larger than for the 
basque, Now dot two inches down from the first dot 
on side body, and place B on arm size at that dot with 
the edge at the height of shoulder-line dot, the same as 
for a basque, and draw a line to point of arm size; draw test 
line from front to outside of side body as before; cut off 
point of side body at test line; dot for length of skirt and 
for width of skirt; draw a straight line from waist line on 
outside of side body to width of skirt dot; now dot two 
inches towards the edge of front from lap line; draw a 
straight line from the test line on front lap line to the two- 
inch dot at the bottom of skirt in front. Cut out the cloak 
allowing for seam except on sleeve. 



[ 23 J 



Figure No. 13. 



Back for a Cloak. 



Draw a line ten inches from edge of cloth for pleats in 
back, and then draft as for a basque, except after drawing 



[ 24 ] 

the shoulder, clot five inches from neck on shoulder line; dot 
three inche for width of back on waist line; place 21 on rule at 
that dot with the edge of rule at the five inch dot on 
shoulder, and draw a line from dot to dot on inside of rule ; 
dot straight down from the width of back dot to bottom of 
skirt, and dot three inches out from that dot for Spring; dot 
four inches down from length of back; dot on first line below 
the waist line; place 21 on rule at the length of back, dot 
with the edge of rule at the four-inch dot and draw a line 
on outside of rule. Lay pleats from the four-inch dot down 
to the bottom of i kirt, and cut out the back. 




Figure No. 14. 



/ 



^ 



[25 I 
Sleeve for a Cloak. 

[See figure 14.] 

Draw a line one-half inch from the edge of cloth; place 
back on line so that the threads of cloth will correspond with 
those of sleeve; then extend waist line and width of back 
and height of shoulder lines, now remove back and dot one- 
half inch on width of back line from the first line; measure 
width of back on width of back line; measure width 
of front from the three-inch dot to arm size, and if the 
combined numbers are 12 inches, dot 12 inches from the 
one-half inch dot on width of back line on sleeve; now dot 
four inches from the first line on height of shoulder on sleeve, 
then dot five inches on same line from the four inch dot; dot 
one-half inch above the height of shoulder line in the center 
of the five inches; round the top of sleeve from the four- 
inch dot, and from the five inch dot to the one-half inch dot 
place O on back arm size at the five-inch dot with the 
edge at the twelve-inch dot, and draw a line from dot 
to dot; place O at the one-half inch dot on width of back 
line with the edge at the four-inch dot and draw a line from 
dot to dot; now dot three inches towards shoulder from waist 
line on first line, and draw a line out from you twenty inches 
from that dot; place B on arm size at the twenty-inch dot with 
the edge of front arm size at the twelve-inch dot and draw a 
curved line for the lower part of the sleeve; dot twelve- 
inches down on first line from waist line; place the square 
end of rale at the twelve-inch dot with the point from you 
and dot two inches; move the square end of the rule to the 
two inch dot with the point from you and dot at 14 inches 
for point on sleeve; place 20 on rule at the waist line on first 
line with the edge at the two -inch dot from the twelve inch 
dot, and draw a line; draw a straight line from the two-inch 
dot to the fourteen-inch dot on point of sleeve; place point 
of rale at the twenty-inch dot at the end of the three-inch 
line above the waist line, with the edge at the fourteen inch 
dot for point of sleeve, and draw a line on outside of rule, 
place 20 on rale at the waist line on first line with the point 
down and the edge at the one-half inch dot on width 
of back line and draw a line on inside of rule. The 
term inside of rule means towards you and outside of 
rule means from you. To obtain the under part of sleeve 
dot twelve inches down from neck on lap line and six inches 
down from shoulder on arm size; curve the line by upper 
part of sleeve; take up space under arm the same as front, 
bat do not sew it to front; dot five inches down from waist 
line on side body and two inches out for spring for under 
part of sleeve; join side body to back at waist line, includ- 
ing under part of sleeve; join upper part of sleeve at edge of 



[26] 

width of back line to the six-inch dot on arm size where 
the under part of sleeve is joined; lay three pleats on 
back of sleeve as shown by dots on the figure ; also lay pleats 
on front part of sleeve as shown by dots; pleat the skirt of 
cloak in the center of back and gather top of sleeve if 
desired. 

Directions for Drafting the Front for a Full Waisc. 

Draft and cut out the lining the same as for a plain waist; 
place the lining on the outside far enough over for a lap, and 
pin it at the neck and at the bottom of the waist in front, 
make a dot one and one-half inch out from the seam under 
the arm at the bottom of the waist for fullness; take hold of 
the outside between the darts with the right hand, and two 
inches from the point of the shoulder with the left hand, and 
lay a plait at the bottom of the waist large enough to take in 
the width of cloth that is dotted under the arm, but be sure 
that the plait does not extend to the shoulder; then cut out 
the outside precisely like the lining; take out the pin at the 
bottom of the waist in front; straighten out the outside at 
the bottom, and cut off the point that was produced by the 
plait straight to the arm size, but do not cut off any in front; 
baste the outside smoothly to the lining from the seam under 
the arm to within one inch of the back dart, and round to 
the neck; take up the darts in the lining and gather in. the 
outside for fullness. 

Directions for Drafting the Back for a Full Waist. 

Draft and cut out the lining the same as for a plain waist; 
place the lining on the outside even at the neck and one inch 
from the edge of the outside cloth at the bottom of the waist, 
the cloth being double; then dot the same at the bottom 
of the waist and under the arm as for the front; lay the 
plait the same as for the front, commencing two inches 
from the middle of the back at the bottom of the waist; then 
cut out the outside precisely like the lining; straighten out the 
outside and cut it off one-third of an inch in the middle of 
the back, sloping to the bottom of the waist under the arm; 
baste the outside smoothly from the seam under the arm to 
within two inches of the middle of the back on the lining, 
and gather in the outside for fullness. 

Rounding the Fronts. 
All waists with one dart should be rounded up the front if 
the bust is full. To do this, dot one-half inch out on the lap 
from A dot on the square end of rule, and place 21 on 
rule at dot with the point up and the edge at the one-inuh 
dot on waist line, and draw a line on inside of rule; place 
21 at the one-inch dot again with the point down and the 



[ 27 ] 

upper edge at neck, and draw a line on inside of rule; draw 
a line from the one-inch dot on waist line 6 inches down to 
line for lap. 

Dropping the Neck for a Stout Lady with a Short Neck. 

After the waist is drafted dot one-half inch down on the 
front of neck from shoulder, and draw the shoulder from that 
dot to point of shoulder as before; draw the neck from the 
one-half inch dot to size of neck as before. Drop the back 
of neck one-half an inch. 

Width of Back. 

The width of back is obtained from the width of chest, 
and should be one-half inch less. If two side bodies are 
desired, and the back side body at arm size is too narrow, 
make the width of back the same as width of chest and take 
off IJ inch from point of side body on front arm size. 

Darts. 

The width of darts must be governed by the size of the 
ladies' bust. If a lady has a full low bust with a small waist 
and two darts are desired, draw both darts the width of rule 
on waist line. 

For stout ladies, dot | of an inch further towards arm size 
for second dart. 

If one dart is desired, make it 3 inches wide on waistline. 

If a lady has a straight slight figure with small bust, and 
one dart is desired, draw the dart the width of rule. 

If two darts, make each dart 2 inches wide on waist line. 
It will be seen that the darts can be made any width desired. 

After draftiag the lining and before cutting out, apply the 
test measure; and if more room is required, dot out from 
under arm size on front and draw a line from bottom of 
waist to dot for seam. 

The back can be let out in the same manner if required. 

Cutting out the "Waist. 

Cut out the lining and allow for seams, except at arm size 
and neck; place the lining on the outside and baste smoothly; 
cut the outside just like the lining; then cut out darts, allow- 
ing for small seams, and allow one inch for seam under arm. 

Drafting for Ladies with Round Shoulders- 
Dot three inches from neck on front shoulder; then dot 
one-half inch down on neck from shoulder; place 21 on rule 
to that dot, and draw a line from dot to dot. 



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[28] 

Basting the "Waist. 

Join the under arm seam even at bottom of waist; join the 
darts even at bottom of waist; hold the front side of dart a 
little full, one inch from waist line to within one inch of top of 
darts. Stretch out the darts before trying on. The back of 
shoulder is one-half inch longer than the front; join the front 
to back even at neck and at shoulder. Stretch out front 
so it will correspond with back; join side body to back 
even at bottom of waist, and stretch it so it will be even with 
back at arm size. Baste the lower part of basque smoothly 
from bottom of waist to bottom of skirt. 

Trying on the Waist. 

To try on the waist, the lady to be fitted should stand with 
her back towards you. Take the waist in both hands so that 
she can put both arms through at once. Before the waist is 
pinned up in front, turn seams on shoulders and under the 
arms to the front, and dart seams back. Pin up front, com- 
mencing at the neck, and avoid pinning the dress to the cor- 
set. After the front is closed, take hold of each side of 
waist just above the bust and near arm size and pull it up; 
then pull down the back. This gives a smooth side piece 
and plenty of room from point of the shoulder to bottom of 
waist. 

The waist should be tried on to ascertain whether the 
measures have been taken right; but in no case should the 
lining be fitted on the figure, before the outside is put on, 
for that will stretch out the lining and make a bad fitting 
waist. If the waist is too large take it off and take in seam 
on the shoulders and under the arms, and be sure to get 
them the same shape as in the drawing, but do not pin it on 
the figure, for in nearly every case this makes a one-sided 
waist, which shows more plainly after it is worn a short 
time. 

Making up the Waist. 

Much care should be taken, in stitching up the seams, not 
to have them pucker. After the waist is stiched, trim off 
the seams quite small, press them open and baste them fast 
to the lining. This will give a smooth fitting seam. 

"Whalebones. 

Whalebones should never be put inside of the seams, but 
the seams should be opened and bias casings sewed on them 
for the bones. The bones for the darts should be made quite 
thin and should extend up to within one inch and a half of 
the top of the darts. The bone in front should be the same 
length as those for the front darts. 



[29 J 

Directions for Diflferent "Waist Measures. 

Waist 21. With one dart and one side body. 
Take 1 inch off in front; dot 2 inches out on waist line for 
width from front to dart; then draw the dart; dot 3| inches, 
from dart out on waist line for the distance from dart to 
under arm seam; dot 4 inches out from last dot; this space 
must be taken up in the seam under arm; dot 3^ inches from 
under arm seam for width of side body; draft back 1^ inches 
for width of back. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 2, dart, 21, 4 off, 2i, back U, side body, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 3^, 4 off', 2^, back, Ih 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
U, dart, 1, dart, 3, 4 off, 2, back, U, l^. 

Waist 22. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 21, dart, 31, 4 off, 3i, back, 1^. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 2^, dart, 3, 4 oft; 2, back, IJ, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 3^, 4 off, 2, back, 2, 2h 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 3, 4 off, 2, back, 1^ 1^. 

Waist 23. One dart and one side body, 
1 off; 21, dart, 4, 4 off; 3, back, 2. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, ^, dart, 3, 4 off, 2, back, l^, 2. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 3, 4 off, 2, back, 1^, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 3|, 4 off, 3, back, 2. 

Waist 24. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 21, dart, 4, 4 off, 3i, back, 2. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 21, dart, 31, 4 off, 2^ back, 1*, 2. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 3, 4 off, 2i, back, li, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 off, 3, back, 2. 

Waist 25. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4, 4 off, 31, back, 2. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 2i dart, 4, 4 off, 2J, back, 1^, 2. 



[30] 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
% dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 off, 2i, back, IJ, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 off, 3|, back, 2. 

Waist 26. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4^, 4 oft', 3|, back, 2. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 21, dart, 41, 4 off, 2^, back, IJ, 2. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 off, 2i, back, \\, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 oft', 4, back, 2. 

Waist 27. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4^, 4 off, 4, back, 2. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4, 4 oft', 2^, back, 1|, 2|. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4|, 4 oft', 2^, back, 1^, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4i, 4 off, 4, back, 2. 

Waist 28. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4i, 4 oft', 4, back, 2. 
One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4, 4 off, 3, back, IJ, 2i. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 oft", 2^, back, 2, 24. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2, dart, 1, dart, 4|, 4 off, 4, back, 2|. 

Waist 29. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 5, 4 oft', 4^ back, 2. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 3, dart, 4*, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 2. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2i, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2|, dart, 1, dart, 4^, 4 oft', 4, back, 1\. 

Waist 30. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 5, 4 off, 4i, back, 2i. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 3, dart, 5, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 2. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2J, dart, 1, dart, 4, 4 off, 3, back, 1\, 2. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2J, dart, 1, dart, 5, 4 off, 4, back, 2|. 



r 31 ] 

Waist 31. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 5|, 4 off', 4i, back, 2i. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 3, dart, 5, 4 off; 3, back, 2, 2i. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2|, dart, 1, dart, 5, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 3. 

Two darts and one side body. 

2, dart, 1, dart, 5^, 4 off, 4, back, 2 J. 

Waist 32. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3, dart, 5|, 4 off, 5, back, 2|. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off", 3, dart, 51, 4 off", 3, back, 2, 2i. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
2i, dart, 1, dart, 5, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 2|. 

Two darts and one side body. 
2|, dart, 1, dart, 5, 4 off, 5, back, 2|. 

Waist 33. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3|, dart, 5, 4 off, 5, back, 3. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 31, dart, 5, 4 off, 3^, back, 2, 2^. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 

3, dart, 1, dart, 4|, 4 off, 3|, back, 2, 2|. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3, dart, 1, dart, 5|, 4 off, 4J, back, 2J. 

Waist 34. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3|, dart, 5|, 4 off", 5, back, 3. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, dh dart, 5i, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 3. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3, dart, 1, dart, 5, 4 off, 3|, back, 2, 2 J. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3, dart. 1, dart, 5|, 4 off, 5, back, 2|. 

Waist 35. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 3|, dart, 5J, 4 off, 0, back, 3|. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, U, dart, 51, 4 off, 3, back, ^, 3. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3, dart, 1, dart, 5, 4 off, 3, back, 2|, 3. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3, dart, 1, dart, 5|, 4 off", 5, back, 3. 

Waist 36. Oae dart and one side body. 
1 off, 31, dart, 5.^, 4 off, 5|, back, 3^. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, Sh dart, 5^, 4 off, 3^, back, 2J, 3. 



[32 J 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3, dart, 1^, dart, 5 J, 4 off, 3, back, 2, 3. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3, dart, 1^, dart, 5, 4 off, 3|, back, 2, 3. 

Waist 37, One dart and one side bodj. 
1 off, 3J, dart, 5^, 4 off, 5i, back, 4. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 31, dart, 5^, 4 off, 4, back, 2^ 3. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3, dart, 1|, dart, 5, 4 off", 4, back, 2, 2J. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3,. dart, IJ, dart, 5^, 4 off, 5^, back, 3. 

Waist 38, One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 4, dart, 5^, 4 off', 5|, back, 4. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 oft; 4, dart, 5^, 4 off, 4, back, 2^, 3, 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3h, dart, U, dart, 5, 4 off, 4, back, 2, 3. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3^, dart, IJ, dart, 5^, 4 off, 5, back, 3|. 

Waist 39. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 4, dart, 6, 4 off, 5J, back, 4. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 4, dart, 6, 4 off, 4, back, 2|, 3. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3J, dart, 1^, dart, 5i, 4 off, 3^, back, 2^, 3. 

Two darts and one side body. 
3, dart, IJ, dart, 6, 4 off, 3^, back, 2^, 3. 

Waist 40. One dart and one side body. 
1 off, 4, dart, 6|, 4 off, 5J, back, 4. 

One dart and two side bodies. 
1 off, 4, dart, 6, 4 off", 4|, back, 2^, 3. 

Two darts and two side bodies. 
3|, dart, IJ, dart, 5^, 4 off, 4, back, 2i, 3. 
Two darts and one side body. 
3|, dart, IJ, dart, 6, 4 off, 5, back, 4. 

It will be seen by foregoing directions for different 
waists' measures that four different styles of waists are 
mathematically worked out from the same measurement, Tiz: 

1. One dart and one side body. 

2. One dart and two side bodies, 

3. Two darts and two side bodies, and 

4. Two darts and one side body. / 



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